10 US and European Roses Reviewed

From the Tahoe Bonanza

...the top selection was the E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2003. At 13 percent alcohol, a bit high for rosé by Cur's standards, but overall: "well balanced; a pleasant drink," he said.

Winemaker's notes identified the Guigal blend as 50 percent Grenache, 25 percent Mourvedre, and 25 percent Syrah from 35 year old vines, aged for a year in oak casks. Bee liked its "deep rosy color, nice warm berry and spice aromas." Old Soak noted, "Mellow tannins and a pleasant aftertaste."

Number two choice by the panel was the Charles Joguet Chinon Rose 2003 from the Loire Valley. According to Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, which imports this wine, this vintage is 100 percent Cabernet Franc and is the crispest and driest of all the company's rosés.

"Nice fruit and good acid," observed Bee "A bridge wine for non-rosé drinkers. Lovely color, very pale," noted Old Soak, upon which Sundance Kid remarked, "but you can't see the color in that dark green bottle!" All agreed the bottle is a detractor, and you'll just have to take their word for it. The wine is a beautiful, soft peachy pink and the bright fruit flavor is perfect for picnics. Look for it at Village Gourmet.

Though it didn't make the top two, the Chateau d'Aqueria Tavel 2003 was rated number one by one taster, the Kid. As such, it deserves mention, if for no other reason than that the Tavel appellation at the foot of the Rhone Valley produces some of the very best rosé wines in the world. Salmon-pink in color, with strawberry and cherry aromas and refreshing acidity, you can't go wrong with any Tavel rosé for light summer refreshment and serious food accompaniment. Village Gourmet will also carry this wine, depending on availability.

Other imports tasted included Marques de Caceres 2003 from the Rioja region in Spain; and Domaine Tempier Bandol 2002 from Provence. Neither of these was to the panel's liking, and everyone agreed the 2002 Bandol was way over-the-hill.

Of the domestic wines, all but the Fife Redhead Dry Rose 2001 from Mendocino were dismissed out-of-hand. Most tasters found more fruit and body in the Fife, which is described on the Web site as "Mediterranean Mèlange," a blend of Carignane and a few Mediterranean varieties. The winemaker's serving suggestions include seafood, barbecue, olives and cheese, and Pacific Rim cuisine.

Other California rosés tasted include Vino Doceto Rosato di Sangiovese 2003 from Shenandoah Valley; Toad Hollow Dry Pinot Noir Rosé 2003, Sonoma; C.G. Arieh Rosé di Arie 2004, Sierra Foothills; and Calera vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2004, Central Coast.

Though all these roses are priced under $10, "none are acceptable," pronounced Cur, adding that at least from the results of this tasting, "it pays to spend $3 or $4 more for a good bottle."

It should be noted, however, that a 10-wine tasting is just a drop in the barrel when it comes to the many good-to-excellent rosés on the market from areas in France, Portugal, Spain, Australia, South Africa and the United States. The Wall Street Journal on June 3 reported on a tasting of 60 imported rosés, recommending seven favorites in the Dow Jones World-Wide Rosé Index.