Solok Blosser Rose of Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2004

Here's something from Matt Kramer of the Portland Oregonian, who knows his roses:

Sokol Blosser Rose of Pinot Noir "Dundee Hills" 2004: Regular readers of this column are likely aware that I am a fan of rose wines. A really good rose is actually a surprisingly rare accomplishment. Roses tend not to sell for much money and they don't bring wineries the prestige they seek.

What's more, roses require a just-right touch. If the juice spends too long on the flavor and color-rich skins then you've got a red wine. Too little time and it's pink but flavorless. And of course the juice itself has to come from pretty good grapes that are suitable for the delicacy of a rose-type wine to begin with.

All of which helps explain the 2004 Rose of Pinot Noir from Sokol Blosser Winery in Dundee. This is a benchmark pinot noir rose, filled with the berryish fragrance and savor of pinot noir without any ponderousness. The color is absolutely perfect for a pinot noir rose, the texture rich but not intrusive.

Not least, it's an exceptional deal in terrific rose: $8.95 a bottle. That's several bucks a bottle less than other roses are asking these days.